Barcelona Part I

Barcelona agreed with us. Oh, did it ever. The sun was shining, the food was delicious (and reasonably priced), the sangria was sweet. I have much more to say after only two full days in Barcelona than I did after two weeks in Italy. Italy did not capture our imagination. The sights and history were certainly amazing, but the city and the atmosphere didn't put any spring in our step as Barcelona immediately did.

The first day we tackled the city with more enthusiasm than our feet were prepared for. We went to the Picasso Museum, the Xocolata Museo (chocolate museum!), three cathedrals including the Sagrada Familia, and a Gaudi's Parc Guell. We had a lunch of pinxos, or little open-faced sandwiches. That lunch included deep glasses of a strong sangria with oranges and lemon slices. Oh, so delicious! As we ate we people watched on a popular street.

Saturday was a lucky day as well. When we reached the Sagrada Familia, possibly the most well-known sight in Barcelona, the line stretched around two city blocks. We checked the guide book and saw that entrance was almost $15 per person. I crabbily asked Dan, "Do we really want to spend $30 to wait in line all day for one church?" While I waited in an incredibly long bathroom line at KFC (no we didn't eat there), Dan asked a police officer if there was a special event that was causing the line to be so long that it was closing down streets. He informed Dan that today, entrance was free! So we waited in that gigantic line, and it moved faster than we expected.

Spaniards were downright friendly. We received smiles, if you can believe that, and lots of patience towards our elementary Spanish we remembered learning in middle and high school (despite other languages being spoken in that region, everyone knew Spanish). To top off all this praise, I can report that the public transportation was simple, clean, and we never waited more than four minutes for our train to come.

Barcelona, to my untrained eye, had considerably more modern architecture than any of the other places I've been in Europe. Perhaps this is due to the influence of the architectural genius Gaudi, who was alive until 1926. There are of course a wealth of traditional buildings, but also wavy modern ones and quite a few businesses with facades worth gazing at.

Dinner on Saturday included more sangria and tapas, with amazing dessert afterwards. Thank goodness we had an afternoon nap, because the typical dinner in Spain is, at the earliest, 9pm. We were back at the hotel and ready for a good night of sleep around midnight.

A Quick Update

There are a few interesting pieces of news:

First, Wednesday was Dan's birthday. We kept it pretty low-key but had a great time. First we opened presents, then we went out for sushi, then we ate a home-made ice cream cake! It's rare that we go out to dinner just the two of us, so it was very special. And the cake was delicious! He said it was a good birthday, even though we're away from our families.

Both of us are starting Swedish for Immigrants classes! In fact, Dan started on Tuesday. He is so ridiculously excited. He interviews me now, asking me where I'm from, if I'm working, if I'm studying, if I'm married... He has quite a few sentences under his belt after attending class twice this week. He even learned some words I never learned in my first month of class!

I start my own SFI classes on Tuesday, but mine will be Monday through Friday from 8:30am-11:30am - very intensive! But I am greatly looking forward to the structure and purpose the schedule and classes will give me.

The last piece of news is that Dan and I are going to Barcelona for the weekend! We're leaving today (Friday) and coming back on Monday. We found very cheap flights and a decent hotel. This is one of the main reasons we moved here: the ease of travel!

I hope to update during the weekend while we're in Barcelona! Adios!

Swedish Doctors

I went to the doctor a couple weeks ago (spoiler - I'm fine) because my eye lids had been twitching for over a month. It was getting a little worrisome and annoying, so I decided to attempt the inevitable confusion that would come with trying to visit a general practitioner.

First, I went to the place next to the grocery store I frequent. They turned me away, saying there was a place I was "registered" at, and I could only see a GP at that location. I had no idea where it was. When I tried to call, I could not figure out the automated phone system. I printed a map, walked in, went to two wrong reception desks, and finally found the right place. I made an appointment and had the following exchange with the nurse:

Nurse: Where are you from?

Me: The USA.

Nurse: How do you like it so far?

Me: I really like it; we can walk everywhere and it's a really good quality of life.

Nurse: Yes, but the malls here are not open as late ! And here they are so small. You must miss your malls.

I mean, I guess I kind of miss a few stores IN the malls, but I'm alright overall.

On the day of my appointment, I waited in a very comfortable waiting room. It looked like a living room, without looking tacky. Jazz played on a small stereo, and everyone hung up their coats and bags on the coat hangers. It didn't feel like the typical doctor's office to me.

That taken care of, at the time of my appointment I was called into a doctor's office. She didn't check my weight, temperature, or blood pressure. She didn't take notes and she didn't open a computer program to register the appointment. She simply sat across from me, with no desk in between us, and asked me very sincerely, "What can I help you with?" She proceeded to listen so attentively, asking me all sorts of thorough questions. She even asked, "Why does this worry you?" but not in a condescending way. When she asked me, "Is there any particular disease that you are worried this could be related to?" I told her that I wasn't afraid of a disease, but perhaps a neurological issue. She took me completely seriously.

To be fair, I have a serious bias against doctors. I have had weird issues like daily stomach issues or daily hives and rashes, only to have doctors tell me there was nothing wrong with me or that it wasn't worth investigating. I have had bad experience after bad experience. To have this woman take me seriously felt so good.

She did a full neurological exam on me, testing my reflexes, vision, and all other sorts of pokes and response tests. She then consulted with a colleague while I waited, and delivered the diagnosis: I was probably just a little stressed, and I should relax if I could. And I believed a doctor for the first time ever, because she had been so patient and attentive.

I can't say for sure if she is representative of an entire Swedish system, but I have to say, that at this point I am starting to believe that it's better than America's.

The Goings-On of Stephanie, Part II

In November, I wrote about what I would be doing in Sweden. The basics haven't changed, although how I view my life has shifted a bit.

Unsurprisingly, I am still unemployed. I have gotten more into the swing of applying for jobs and try to apply for a few each week. I registered at the Arbetsförmedlingen, aka the Unemployment Office, and got a job coach there. He is quite sweet, and thoroughly and kindly reviewed my CV and personal letter (Swedish version of the cover letter which is way more personal than an American letter would be). Additionally, the job coach suggested I apply for personal care attendant jobs here, because the person who wants help chooses the assistant, and so I might have more luck. This is what I am focusing my efforts on now.

As I mentioned before, Swedish is really the key to working here, as well as the key to fully integrating into society. Accordingly, I try to keep it a top priority. I finished the Folk Universitet class, and now I have signed up for the free Swedish for Immigrants (SFI) classes. I have to wait for a spot to open, and they don't tell you how long that will be. It could be tomorrow or six months from now.

It is definitely hard at times for me to have my time be so unstructured. I don't think I have ever had so much time that was just open - I can do anything and everything with it. Of course, there's a blessing in there somewhere, but it's hard to harness. I have to be very motivated to stay busy, but when I keep myself occupied, I'm happier and more fulfilled at the end of the day. The temptation is always there to watch TV all day, but most days I write letters, cook, see friends, apply for jobs, read, etc.

I can gladly report that socially, I am doing really well. I am in a bookclub with the American Women's Club, and there are potlucks, sushi nights, and all sorts of other fun gatherings through that group. I try to be outgoing and invite people to get together any chance I get. I've already met people I consider solid friends. Additionally, I found a great group of people called "Lund University Foreign Friends." We get together every two weeks at a different member's house to talk and share experiences. This is a fun community that I really look forward to spending time with. There are people from the UK, Japan, the US, France, China, Denmark, and plenty more.

The longer I am here, the more I think I will go back to school in the fall, as long as I am accepted. My application is complete and submitted now and I should hear sometime in March - I am very optimistic the University will accept me. Whatever masters program I choose, it will help me in Sweden and anywhere I go. It's probably a social goldmine as well.

It's hard not to think a lot when I have all this time for it. It's led me into the inevitable train of thought that goes something like, "What is the meaning of life?!" or more specifically, "What makes my life meaningful and what makes me happy?" After some brainstorming I have tentatively settled on these components: First, I want to have something to look forward to each day. It could be the adventure of learning to make my own bread, which I've always wanted to do, or it could be waking up for Swedish class, or the goal of running a 10k by summer.

Secondly, I also want to somehow be contributing or to have a purpose to my activities. This one is harder, because the typical American notion of contributing has a lot to do with working or volunteering in public life, both of which are giving me trouble here (no response from any women's shelters as of today). But for now I satisfy this requirement by applying for jobs, searching out new opportunities, and trying to keep myself busy and happy.

For now, the challenge is to live the life day-to-day that I want to, by not settling into a boring routine, but by doing the things I imagined myself doing when I was in the US, working, stressed, and contemplating moving here. I imagined days where I would have a slow pace, take great care of myself and the love of my life, learning to cook and do paper art, and finally reading any book I can get my hands on. On to another day of working towards that goal - cheers.

Swedish Field Journal: 2nd Edition

Just this past week was the two-month anniversary of our living in Sweden - realizing that was mutually surprising for Dan and I. It feels like so much longer! We are starting to feel like we're integrating. In the past week, we've seen four people around town that we knew. That's a good feeling.

With another month comes another set of cultural observations. Interestingly, being in Italy illuminated some of the cultural hallmarks of the Swedes and their country. Allow me to compare:

Italy was not what we expected. The country could be labeled a "2nd world" country for a number of reasons. It's quite dirty and stinky (at least in the cities, to be fair), things are very unorganized, there is graffiti on every conceivable surface, the trains and buses are very difficult to understand, etc. The sites we saw were amazing - the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, artwork in Venice; but the nature of the cities was so different. I think Sweden has spoiled us.

Swedes are very organized. I have mentioned the way that people are directed to take a number and wait patiently for everything from the deli at the grocery store, to the bank, to the pharmacy. There are trash receptacles everywhere, the trains are in great condition, and any public spaces are well maintained.

The people are polite but not too forthcoming. For example, at the grocery store, the person checking out your items will say hello, and that's it. But if you say something to them, they are sweet and happy to talk to you. But I don't think they ever would start small talk themselves. I cannot recall a time that anyone was rude to me here, but I am told that Swedish people might not want to be in your business. I think this is where the stereotype of the "cold" Swede comes from. They might just be shy! (Quite a sweeping statement for a country of people, but I am trying to generalize here.)

Another interesting cultural note for Sweden is the liquor laws. Any and all liquor (except for very very light beers that you can't get a buzz off of) is sold in ONE store, called the Systembolaget, that is owned by the Swedish government. Their hours of operation are quite strict, closing at about 6pm on a weekday evening, 2pm on Saturday, and completely closed on Sunday. They only accept Swedish ID's and passports - I have been turned away, despite my Wisconsin Drivers License. There is a sign that you see, as you check out, that says: "Systembolaget, the Swedish Alcohol Retail Monopoly, exists for one reason: To minimize alcohol-related problems by selling alcohol in a responsible way, without profit motive."(Taken from systembolaget.se) The upside is that the people who work there are specialists who can perfectly pair your wine to your dinner, as well as order in any liquor that you may want at no extra charge. Still, the prices are painfully high due to taxes. It's an interesting system.

Furthermore, when they change the rules about how they sell liquor, the government thoroughly studies its impact. Just a few years ago the Systembolagets were opened on Saturdays. Then they studied the amount of drunken driving, saw that it did not increase, and now it continues to be open on Saturday.

This is socialism, perhaps at its best and worst. Limited hours, high prices, but good services and perfect availability. It irks my default-American-capitalist mind, but I am trying to be open about it.

As for cultural notes, that's all I have for now. Being in Italy made me realize just how similar Sweden is to the US, or at least the American Midwest. I feel very comfortable here, much more so than in Italy which felt more foreign.

More on Italy in a further post!