Swedish Field Journal: 2nd Edition

Just this past week was the two-month anniversary of our living in Sweden - realizing that was mutually surprising for Dan and I. It feels like so much longer! We are starting to feel like we're integrating. In the past week, we've seen four people around town that we knew. That's a good feeling.

With another month comes another set of cultural observations. Interestingly, being in Italy illuminated some of the cultural hallmarks of the Swedes and their country. Allow me to compare:

Italy was not what we expected. The country could be labeled a "2nd world" country for a number of reasons. It's quite dirty and stinky (at least in the cities, to be fair), things are very unorganized, there is graffiti on every conceivable surface, the trains and buses are very difficult to understand, etc. The sites we saw were amazing - the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, artwork in Venice; but the nature of the cities was so different. I think Sweden has spoiled us.

Swedes are very organized. I have mentioned the way that people are directed to take a number and wait patiently for everything from the deli at the grocery store, to the bank, to the pharmacy. There are trash receptacles everywhere, the trains are in great condition, and any public spaces are well maintained.

The people are polite but not too forthcoming. For example, at the grocery store, the person checking out your items will say hello, and that's it. But if you say something to them, they are sweet and happy to talk to you. But I don't think they ever would start small talk themselves. I cannot recall a time that anyone was rude to me here, but I am told that Swedish people might not want to be in your business. I think this is where the stereotype of the "cold" Swede comes from. They might just be shy! (Quite a sweeping statement for a country of people, but I am trying to generalize here.)

Another interesting cultural note for Sweden is the liquor laws. Any and all liquor (except for very very light beers that you can't get a buzz off of) is sold in ONE store, called the Systembolaget, that is owned by the Swedish government. Their hours of operation are quite strict, closing at about 6pm on a weekday evening, 2pm on Saturday, and completely closed on Sunday. They only accept Swedish ID's and passports - I have been turned away, despite my Wisconsin Drivers License. There is a sign that you see, as you check out, that says: "Systembolaget, the Swedish Alcohol Retail Monopoly, exists for one reason: To minimize alcohol-related problems by selling alcohol in a responsible way, without profit motive."(Taken from systembolaget.se) The upside is that the people who work there are specialists who can perfectly pair your wine to your dinner, as well as order in any liquor that you may want at no extra charge. Still, the prices are painfully high due to taxes. It's an interesting system.

Furthermore, when they change the rules about how they sell liquor, the government thoroughly studies its impact. Just a few years ago the Systembolagets were opened on Saturdays. Then they studied the amount of drunken driving, saw that it did not increase, and now it continues to be open on Saturday.

This is socialism, perhaps at its best and worst. Limited hours, high prices, but good services and perfect availability. It irks my default-American-capitalist mind, but I am trying to be open about it.

As for cultural notes, that's all I have for now. Being in Italy made me realize just how similar Sweden is to the US, or at least the American Midwest. I feel very comfortable here, much more so than in Italy which felt more foreign.

More on Italy in a further post!